AS the Moss Wood 2014 Wilyabrup Chardonnay shows, Margaret River does chardonnay well. This has 14.2 per cent alcohol, is green-tinted light gold and has preserved lemon and vanilla bean scents. Intense golden peach flavour shows on the front palate, mango, spice, lemongrass and cashew oak combine on the middle and slatey acid refreshes. DRINK WITH: seafood risotto. AGEING: 10 years.