Moss Wood have punted for 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc in this Margaret River icon from the 2018 vintage, which the Mugfords claim as one of the best years ever. It is a big call, and there are plenty of winemakers around the country that pull out this line every second vintage. Keith and Clare Mugford are not in that camp and there are few more cautious with praise than the duo at Moss Wood.

Deep in colour, it is beautifully seamless from start to finish with superb concentration of sweet fruits plus more savoury elements. Powerful blackberry and mulberry fruits are well supported by dried herbs and a touch of violets. The oak is there but exactly where it should be at this young age for a wine clearly well suited to long aging.

The palate is more dense – dark gravelly spicy fruits are supported by strong but well integrated tannins. What stands out most, as in all great Moss Woods, is composure and evenness of fruit and structure, like the greatest wines from Margaux, which is all finished off here with an extraordinarily long and silky finish. This is something very special from Moss Wood.

Published February 2021