Moss Wood in Margaret River has been making Semillon for over four decades, and it has a loyal following. Not always as consistent as their other wines, but, as they say in the classics, when it is good, it is very good. The style has seen variations over time and vintage conditions play a role (Moss Wood offer exceptionally detailed reports of vintages on their website if you ever want to get the low down). Semillon from Margaret River is usually blended with Sauvignon Blanc but, at Moss Wood, they prefer to go solo. Hand harvested and then whole-bunch pressed before transfer into stainless steel tanks for 48 hours. Multiple yeast strains are then added for fermentation at 18 degrees to dryness. Then racked, sterile filtered and bottled.

Margaret River Semillons almost inevitably have a green edge. That is noticeable, though not intrusive, here. Deep yellow in colour, perhaps a little more than one might expect for a ’21. The wine is fresh and youthful. Aromas of lemons, green fruits, custard, citrus, spices and herbs. There is a minerally texture, with good length. An attractive style that is probably best drunk within the next couple of years.

Published December 2021