Powerful, dense and almost muscular, this cool-vintage iteration of semillon shows a tight core of apple and lime fruit, wrapped in layers of lemongrass, wisps of jalapeño, coriander root and apple skins. The top notes stray onto the exotic-spice spectrum, with fresh nutmeg, saffron and even za’atar. All this to say, a unique, restrained and precise expression, although a further year in bottle will likely assist in settling some of the early friskiness it has right now.

Published 12 May 2022