Moss Wood’s Margaret River semillon isn’t just about primary fruit characters. Miles away from “pretty” white wines, typically complex winemaker input gives it great personality, yet it has no apparent oak. Almond syrup, lemon and waxy aromas track through a harmonious, round, full palate. Serious semillon. (14 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Food ideas: Tuna carpaccio; stir-fry pork and snake beans.

Stocklists include: Strathmore Cellars; Armadale Cellars.

Four stars – First class, a wine of distinction not far below the top rating.

3 February 2009

“While I am overwhelmed with the generosity of Ralph’s comments I can tell you, from resent experience this wine should age just as superbly for 10 – 25 years. Last week we drank a 1989 and a 1990 and they were still showing the complex characters that Ralph describes with the added bonus of a vibrant lifted nose of lemon and honeysuckle, aged honey notes, mouth filling texture, good acid and persistent length of palate, thank goodness for good corks.” Clare Mugford.