This is the first release of a Chardonnay under Moss Wood’s Ribbon Vale label and much was expected, given the quality of the MW Chardy. As a vintage, the MW team have compared 2021 to the 1989 harvest, for those with long memories. The Mugfords had made Chardonnays from this vineyard in 2000 and 2001, but they were not released as they did not reach their standards. So the vines were removed and replaced – gasp, shock, horror – with Sauvignon Blanc. Planting trees to eventually form a wind break has assisted the fruit, although yields certainly still fall short of what can be achieved with Savvy. Nonetheless, it has returned to the vineyard. The grapes are made in the same manner as for the MW Chardonnay. Bunches go into the presses with the must and then to stainless steel for 24 hours settling. Racked to a second tank, partial fermentation and then transferred to French oak barrels, 25% new, to complete that ferment.

An alluring nose of peaches, stonefruits and gunflint. There is some early complexity, but very good oak integration. Spices, a hint of nuts and a little whiff of orange rind. A supple and silky texture with a flick of acidity and length, this is a chardonnay which is clean, full of flavour and interest. Drink now and for the next six years.