A legend of the Australian fine wine scene, with an enviable track record of ageable grandeur. Full-weighted, to be sure, yet far from obvious as the pummel of classy mocha oak and impeccably gleaned grape tannins expand and recoil with air. All class. Detailed, fine boned and juicy. Currant, bay leaf, graphite and hedgerow, evidencing Australia’s propensity to promote a controlled lilt of greenness for lift and freshness, over the American tendency to massage it out. I far prefer the former approach. This will make fine old bones. Best after 2026.

December, 2023