The 2022 Ribbon Vale Chardonnay was always going to be like this; a warm year combined with a rich style has produced a wine of characteristic hedonism, with toasted pineapple, apricot square (the sugar dusted ones), yellow daisies, fleshy peach and custard powder. The phenolics that reside on the middle palate through the finish throw a cinnamon-laden fireball across the tongue, leaving a streak of amaro herbs, nutmeg, charred sandalwood and star anise in its wake. There’s a lot going on. It’s lighter than the Moss Wood estate 2021 Chardonnay tasted beside it but not by much. Frisky. A little edgy. More corners. Composed, though. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.