June, 2023
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A legend of the Australian fine wine scene, with an enviable track record of ageable grandeur. Full-weighted, to be sure, yet far from obvious as the pummel of classy mocha oak and impeccably gleaned grape tannins expand and recoil with air. All class. Detailed, fine boned and juicy. Currant, bay leaf, graphite and hedgerow, evidencing Australia’s propensity to promote a controlled lilt of greenness for lift and freshness, over the American tendency to massage it out. I far prefer the former approach. This will make fine old bones. Best after 2026.
December, 2023
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This is exceptional semillon, made with a stylistic nod to white Grave as much as fealty to Margaret River’s oath of immaculate ripeness, melded to a saline pop of freshness. Full-weighted, yet light on its feet. Some unresolved CO2 is as effective as the drag of acidity in promoting freshness. Accents of cut grass, lemon pastille, nettle and mirabelle, with the oak nicely pliant across the long, buttressed finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2026. Screw cap. Drinkable now, but best from 2026. Screw cap.
December, 2023
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This is a large-framed chardonnay, trying its best to burst from a mid-weighted corset of tension. The oak is lustrous, while the creamy core is generous, indelibly stamped with nougatine and toasted nuts, as one would expect from a more bumptious expression. Yet the tension remains. The belt of cedar across the mid-palate screams the need to cellar. For the mid-term. Aromas of green fig, yellow plum, cantaloupe and oatmeal, all attractive. I look forward to tasting this in eight years time. Drinkable now, but best from 2028. Screw cap.
December, 2023
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Gee, they’ve turned out an excellent Semillon in 2023. No oak employed here.
Ripe green apple, quince, lime leaf, citrus blossom, a little spice and jalapeño. It’s flavoursome, but balanced, with a fine grip, green melon and citrus, arrowroot biscuits, and a bright and long finish offering lime zest and some exotic tropical fruits, maybe yellow kiwi fruit or something like that. It’s a delight, and sure, a bolder expression of Semillon, but with excellent balance and intensity of fruit. I think one of the best releases of this wine for some time.
September, 2023
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Medium deep crimson. Very attractive strawberry pastille, red cherry, chinotto aromas and flavours, fine slinky textures, lovely mid palate viscosity and underlying roasted walnut notes. Finishes chalky and minerally with seductive sweet fruits. Early to medium term drinking wine. Drink now – 2027
September, 2023
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Pale colour. Lifted grassy, lemon curd hint marzipan aromas with hints of aniseed. Attractive lemon curd, tropical fruit marzipan flavours, fine chalky textures, impressive mid-palate volume and well balanced linear fresh acidity. Generous and richly flavoured wine with lovely fruit definition and impact. Delicious to drink now but should keep for a while Drink now – 2028.
September, 2023
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Medium pale colour. Beautiful grapefruit, melon aromas with marzipan vanilla notes. Generous and creamy with ripe yellow fruits, melon, white apricot flavours, fine supple textures, superb marzipan vanilla oak notes and fresh long indelible acidity. Lovely viscosity and mineral length; the oak in perfect symmetry to the fruit. A lovely vintage. Drink now -2028
September, 2023
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The classic red variety from Margaret River, this wine is a deep, shining red. The nose is blackberries, delicatessen meats, spices, tobacco leaves and an ever-so-slight oaky note, but it is well integrated and merely adds to the complexity evident here. Attractive dark cherry touches. Fine tannins, a hint gravelly. There is balance and texture here and great length. The palate sees the emergence of more cassis notes and cigar box characters. This is a classy Margaret River Cabernet with ten to fifteen years.
November, 2023
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Aussie Merlot has rarely hit the heights that many once hoped, but there have certainly been some very fine examples and Moss Wood’s has always been among them.
A deep garnet hue, the nose gives appealing plum pudding and rich fruitcake notes. A hint of chocolate and dried fruit characters. Spices and a touch of rose water. This is balanced, seamless and with fresh acidity. Fine tannins and good grip. This has some impressive length and a lingering finish. There is room for improvement, but enjoy it any time over the next six to eight years.
November, 2023
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