Keith Mugford is working hard in the vineyard to achieve ripeness without blowing out to high alcohols. He certainly hit the target in 2004, picking ripe melon/peach-fruited chardonnay at just 12.8 baume, with tight fine acidity. The result is a wine showing intense bitter hazelnuts and cashewy oak alongside butter and spice on the bouquet. It’s a citrusy style with firm oak; all it needs is time to come into balance. Very good wine. Best drinking around 2007-2009. Like it. 90/100