Moss Wood makes two pinots – one from estate vineyards in Margaret River, the other from Mornington Peninsula. I served the estate wine masked to a couple of experienced wine people and neither identified the variety – though we all enjoyed it as a lovely, medium-bodied dry red. The Mornington wine, on the other hand, could’ve been nothing but pinot, and a very good example of it. It’s fragrant, silky, smooth and seamless, with “pinosity”, an elusive element setting pinot apart from other red varieties.

Published: February 1 2013