IN 1976 the Pannells were among the first in Margaret River to plant chardonnay – with cabernet sauvignon, the varieties on which the region’s subsequent fame is based.

Earlier in 1973 Moss Wood trail-blazed by planting pinot noir vines, which produced the first wine in 1977. The Mugfords love their pinot noir, but admit many people aren’t aware they make this “Moss Wood stable dark horse”. “We are not trying to recreate the Cote D’Or in Wilyabrup,” they declare, “the wines are true to their sense of place”.This delightful 2015 is that with 14 per cent alcohol, ruby hues, scents of violets and vibrant raspberry front-palate flavour. The middle palate shows dried cranberry, peppermint, spice and mocha oak and the finish has dusty tannins.

(Published January 27th, 2018)