It only takes a millisecond to know you are in the presence of vinous royalty. This is a truly beautiful chardonnay, seamless perfection from the first sip. You know there has to be quality oak somewhere in the wine, and know that all the analytical numbers will be a Bo Derek 10. It is liquid gold.

James Halliday is an unmatched authority on every aspect of the Australian wine industry. He is the author of The Australian Wine Companion (among many other wine books), primary content provider to supporting website, winecompanion.com.au and and has a weekly column in The Australian.

Published 01 November 2018