High expectations accompany iconic labels such as Moss Wood, especially following on from the powerful 2020. This elegantly styled 21 vintage steps up and delivers, even in its youth. This is a wine built for cellaring and, as such, it was day two when the full gamut of flavours and textures opened up, in all their magisterial glory. Think boysenberry, blueberry essence and blackberries with nuances of nori, black olive, cedar and oak toast. There’s boundless flavour intensity and a nervy freshness and silkiness to the mouthfeel. Quite the feat of engineering to craft something so substantial yet with such lightness of touch. Stunning.

May, 2024