Moss Wood 2023 Chardonnay – Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate

Moss Wood 2023 Chardonnay – Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
I often view this wine in the context of the season it was grown. The style of Moss Wood Chardonnay is more consistent than the vintages that birth it, and so it becomes a fascinating lens through which to view the wine each year. The 2023 growing season (which, as a reminder, contains the spring and early summer at the end of 2022) was near on perfect in Margaret River, especially for the white varieties. Mild temperatures, dry conditions and everything mostly worked out—weather at flowering, yields, vine health—big generalizations perhaps, but the consistency and high quality of the year allows it. So, the 2023 Chardonnay has all the richness and tropicality that it so often does, with pineapple, peach, pink grapefruit and guava, but this year, the tension and finesse of the season are the overlay. The wine feels detailed and exciting yet is true to its own style, with nuts, pastry, creamy custard, croissants, hand-churned butter etc. … It has it all. It’s a magnificent wine from a great year, one of the best Chardonnay releases from Moss Wood. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.