Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon in The Wine Enthusiast – Joe Czerwinski, March 2nd, 2017

Why You Should Pay Attention to Australian Cabernet

The best-selling varietal red wine in the United States is Cabernet Sauvignon.

But if you check the shelves of your local wine retailer or the wine list of your neighborhood hangout for Australian options, prepare to be disappointed. Shiraz has deservedly been the dominant force in the American market for decades.

Yet, with a bit of persistence, consumers who seek out Australian Cabernet Sauvignon (and Cab-based blends) will be rewarded with wines that can challenge international classics, often at lower prices. Just know that for many of the top wines, quantities that reach the American market can be limited. Hesitation might mean that someone else grabs your Cab.

Margaret River

Three hours south of Perth, this underappreciated wine region has long been a weekend refuge for that city’s affluent residents and surfer dudes alike. Commercial viticulture here turns 50 years old this year, celebrating the 1967 plantings at Vasse Felix. Other early pioneers include Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Leeuwin, Moss Wood and Woodlands.

Interest in Margaret River was spurred by John Gladstone, a state horticulturist who argued that the maritime climate was ideally suited for Bordeaux varieties. Robert Mondavi was a huge supporter of those early efforts. He repeatedly visited Margaret River and offered advice to the Horgans at Leeuwin Estate and the Watsons at Woodlands. Given how geographically isolated the region is, that’s testament to the potential for fine wine.

While other parts of the country can make terrific Cabernet Sauvignon, I’d agree that Margaret River is Australia’s most consistent region for top Cabs.

The long trip pays off with access to stunning beaches, a bounty of locally produced foods and, of course, the world-class Cabernet Sauvignons (the Chardonnays can be great, too). That point is driven home at the annual International Cabernet Tasting, held at Cape Mentelle.

In November, at the 34th edition of the event, several of Margaret River’s wines made a strong showing in a 20-wine blind tasting. The entrants included benchmarks like Château Margaux, Ornellaia and Chateau Montelena, plus Australian legends Houghton Jack Mann and Wynns John Riddoch, all from the 2013 vintage.

The mild climate features warmer days than Bordeaux, yet cooler ones than Napa, and the wines tend to fall between those extremes stylistically. Current Margaret River releases are never overripe, yet they avoid overt green characteristics. When the wines show herbal notes, they’re pleasant hints of bay leaf and sage.
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The result is a group of Cabernet-based wines that James Halliday, Australia’s well-known wine critic, considers his country’s best. While other parts of the country can make terrific Cabernet Sauvignon, I’d agree that Margaret River is Australia’s most consistent region for top Cabs.

Fortunately for those who can’t (or won’t) make the 30-plus-hour trip, a growing number of the region’s wines are available in the United States. Whether it’s the result of renewed efforts at quality from the establishment, upstarts with innovative viticultural practices or small producers that push the boundaries of low alcohol and minimal intervention, these wines reflect a new energy in the region.

Recent Top-Rated ­­­­­Margaret River ­Cabernets

Moss Wood 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River); 95 points

Perhaps the best young wine I’ve tasted from Margaret River, this makes a compelling case for the region’s Cabernet. Pure cassis fruit is lifted and framed by hints of toasted cedar, making for soaring aromatics and flavors, but what sets this wine apart is the tender, silky texture married to ample weight and richness. The finish lingers, with a supple, dreamy character that speaks to a gentle climate and careful winemaking. Drink now–2030.

Read full article here: http://www.winemag.com/2017/03/02/why-you-should-pay-attention-to-australian-cabernet/