This is supple and lithe; layers of raspberry and cocoa, licorice and clove. In the mouth there is saltbush and bay leaf, and it’s beautiful. The structure is fine, it doesn’t have that slippery, formless shape that can so afflict merlot from Margaret River. Nay – this is Château Lafleur-like in its subtle framework and enduring line. Lovely.

Published 12 May 2022