Tastings – Wine of the Week. Moss Wood 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

The Wine of the Week concept involves a value-for-money consideration, so reviewing such an expensive wine here is indulgent. But I feel moved to make a statement. This is my idea of a beautiful red wine. It‘s an essay in elegance and harmony: the flavours build on the palate the more you sip and the wine continues to give more, whereas many modern reds pall rapidly. Perfectly ripened fruit yields aromas of raspberry, blackberry and a subtle trace of mint (of which less is more). It strikes a perfect balance between concentration and restraint, resulting in elegance and intensity, with none of the syrupy, over-alcoholic or extracted mouth-feel of many mod-Oz cabernets. This is cabernet I want to drink, either today, in 25 years, or any time in between. It has 14 per cent alcohol.

Food Practically all red meat dishes, hard cheeses and many soft ones (but not blues).